![]() ![]() I found it a little bit chalkier than Type-M, but just as easy to work with. I used it sparingly at the start of my business since it was easy to find. Good ole’ DAP 33 is available at almost every hardware store, which is one of the reasons I think so many people use it. But that slow curing makes for a putty that stays flexible much longer than most of its competitors. ![]() The downside is that it takes a long time to cure (2-3 weeks). Dual Glaze is almost identical to work with as Type-M, except that it’s a bit oilier which makes it a little messier to work with, especially on hot days. This makes it a good choice for spot glazing touch ups outside. This is the first putty I learned to use because it can be used almost anywhere! It is designed for wood OR steel windows and can be applied outside or in a shop. Sarco has been making putty for a long time and they have a lot of different varieties of which Dual Glaze is one of the most versatile. Despite this, I have had decent success using it sparingly outside as long as I get it painted in the 3-5 day range after application. It is only recommended for glazing in a shop and is only for wood sash (not for steel windows). The putty is also fast to skin over, which means it is ready for paint (in most conditions) in as quick as 3-4 days. It is relatively easy to use, not too oily, or too dry and tools to a nice smooth finish. This is the most common glazing putty that professional window restorers use and it’s what my shop uses about 90% of the time. The Sarco putties are sold right here on The Craftsman and other putties are affiliate links, which means I get a small commission at no extra cost to you if you decide to buy the putty, but don’t buy unless you think it is the right one for you! I’ve also included links for each glazing putty, so you can purchase them if you’re interested. ![]() So, I’ve put together this list of my six favorite window putties to help you in your search. All of these putties will help you get the job done right, it just depends on your personal preferences and situation as to which will be the best putty for your project. A lot depends on the type of window and where you will be doing your gazing (outside or in a shop). They all have god points and bad points.There are a lot of options when it comes to finding the right window glazing putty for you. Goop (T Jet plastic added to Testors 3502) might be the hardest once it finally cures. Bondo may or may not be easier to work with. Green putty is similar to red lead, but dries much harder than it. It's hard to find that happy medium, and it's not just JB Weld. If I break through the JB to the styrene it's even worse, because now I have 3 different levels of hardness all being sanded at the same time. The problem then becomes I'll be removing the ABS from the body instead of removing the JB. If you wait too long, it cures like steel and sanding it is rather difficult. If you sand it too early, the JB will be too soft and sand too easily. The body is ABS plastic, and is one hardness, the styrene is on the soft side of the spectrum, and the JB Weld goes from even softer than styrene to harder than ABS. I decide to fill in a window on a body using styrene and covered with JB quick weld. One of the biggest tricks to learn is working with different material's hardness'. ![]()
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